Tripleshot Cycling

With a casing cut, even if it isn't large enough to let the tube burst
out, will nibble at the tube at the cut and cause a leak. Such a cut
as you describe needs structural help and that requires a fabric inlay
commonly known as a boot. These used to be offered for car tires
tubeless tires were not yet invented. The feature of a boot is that
it must flex with the casing and have enough strength to not slip out
of place.

The following item from the FAQ explains how to do this for a tubular
tire (one with the tube sewn into the hose-like casing) but the method
is the same. I carry a rectangular piece of thin tire casing for that
purpose. Because I don't consider this a long term repair for a
clincher, I don't glue it in and finish the ride.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Casing Repair
Repairing tubular tires requires latex emulsion. You can get it from
carpet layers, who usually have it in bulk. You must have a container
and beg for a serving. If you are repairing a tubular you probably
ride them, and therefore, will have dead ones lying around. The best
tubulars generally furnish the best repair material.

Most cuts of more than a few cords, like a glass cut, require a
structural boot. With thin latex tubes, uncovered casing cuts will
soon nibble through the tube and cause another flat. For boot
material, pull the tread off a silk sprint tire, unstitch it and cut
off the bead at the edge of the fold. Now you have a long ribbon of
fine boot material. Cut off a 10cm long piece and trim it to a width
that just fits inside the casing of the tire to be booted from inside
edge of the bead (the folded part) to the other edge.

The boot must be trimmed using a razor blade to a thin feathered edge
so that the tube is not exposed to a step at the boot's edge,
otherwise this will wear pinholes in a thin latex tube. Apply latex
to the cleaner side of the boot and the area inside the tire,
preferably so the boot cords are 90 degrees from the facing tire
cords.

Insert the boot and press it into place, preferably in the natural
curve of the tire. This makes the the boot the principal structural
support when the tire is again inflated, after the boot cures. If the
casing is flat when the boot is glued, it will stretch the casing more
than the boot upon inflation. After the boot dries, and this goes
rapidly, sew the tire.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Jobst Brandt
jobst.bra...@stanfordalumni.org

JohnT wrote: Anyone with duct tape, glue, fishing line, etc. holding their bike together should identify themselves with a white patch, or better yet, a skull and cross-bones patch. Or maybe we should have an A+, A, B and cross-your-fingers ride.

JT

Lister Farrar wrote:This guy claims you can repair with a section of tubular casing. Haven't tried it yet, but plan to with other frustratingly new, cut tires.

http://groups.google.ca/group/rec.bicyc ... 051eba09ff

With a casing cut, even if it isn't large enough to let the tube burst
out, will nibble at the tube at the cut and cause a leak. Such a cut
as you describe needs structural help and that requires a fabric inlay
commonly known as a boot. These used to be offered for car tires
tubeless tires were not yet invented. The feature of a boot is that
it must flex with the casing and have enough strength to not slip out
of place.

The following item from the FAQ explains how to do this for a tubular
tire (one with the tube sewn into the hose-like casing) but the method
is the same. I carry a rectangular piece of thin tire casing for that
purpose. Because I don't consider this a long term repair for a
clincher, I don't glue it in and finish the ride.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Casing Repair
Repairing tubular tires requires latex emulsion. You can get it from
carpet layers, who usually have it in bulk. You must have a container
and beg for a serving. If you are repairing a tubular you probably
ride them, and therefore, will have dead ones lying around. The best
tubulars generally furnish the best repair material.

Most cuts of more than a few cords, like a glass cut, require a
structural boot. With thin latex tubes, uncovered casing cuts will
soon nibble through the tube and cause another flat. For boot
material, pull the tread off a silk sprint tire, unstitch it and cut
off the bead at the edge of the fold. Now you have a long ribbon of
fine boot material. Cut off a 10cm long piece and trim it to a width
that just fits inside the casing of the tire to be booted from inside
edge of the bead (the folded part) to the other edge.

The boot must be trimmed using a razor blade to a thin feathered edge
so that the tube is not exposed to a step at the boot's edge,
otherwise this will wear pinholes in a thin latex tube. Apply latex
to the cleaner side of the boot and the area inside the tire,
preferably so the boot cords are 90 degrees from the facing tire
cords.

Insert the boot and press it into place, preferably in the natural
curve of the tire. This makes the the boot the principal structural
support when the tire is again inflated, after the boot cures. If the
casing is flat when the boot is glued, it will stretch the casing more
than the boot upon inflation. After the boot dries, and this goes
rapidly, sew the tire.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Jobst Brandt
jobst.bra...@stanfordalumni.org

When I do, and If it works, I'll be glad to share pieces of tubular tire casing as boots.